{"id":1860,"date":"2021-09-11T14:37:52","date_gmt":"2021-09-11T12:37:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.discoveringlario.com\/?p=1860"},"modified":"2021-09-11T14:41:29","modified_gmt":"2021-09-11T12:41:29","slug":"brenzio","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.discoveringlario.com\/en\/brenzio\/","title":{"rendered":"Brenzio"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

If you love art \u2013 especially the art that speaks to the heart of the people \u2013 then a tour of the ancient churches on Lake Como is certain to feed your fancy. Many of the churches with the most expressive art are closed unless there is a Mass or celebration, or one is willing to hire a guide for a private showing. Today I visited the Church of San Giovanni Battista in Brenzio, near Gravedona.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

I went back for two years and only found two Wall Madonna\u2019s and a consistently closed Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista. This year I called my tour guide – and to my delight the 16th century Wall Madonna I could not find was in the church! It had been removed to preserve it. What luck!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Brenzio is not a town on anyone\u2019s vacation itinerary. It is at the end of a steep and winding road above Lake Como and the town has long since seen better days \u2013 if those days were ever truly better. But I was taken to see the lovely town laundry fountain by my cousins and because of that … <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I was moved to do some research on the village. I located a slim volume about the town online and learned two things \u2013 there were three fabulous Wall Madonna\u2019s there and the small, non-descript church had paintings by Il Fiammenghino – Giovanni Mauro Della Rovere (1575-1540) and Isidoro Bianchi (1581-1662)! Wow!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – The gorgeous town laundry fountain that is still used <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – The space in the town square where the 16th Wall Madonna used to be! This is quite near the laundry fountain. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – the 16th century Wall Madonna. Mary and Jesus are flanked by St John the Baptist and St Rocco <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – entry doors to Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – the very old and very large skeleton key that opens the front door <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The parish – the formal administrative district of the mother church – established the Brenzio locality as a congregation in the 14th century. The Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista was built later in the 15th century. Artistic embellishments proceeded soon after paid for by the devoted locals. The large arch above the front altar was crafted by Isidoro Bianchi di Campione (1581-1662). The two side chapels were painted by the master – Il Fiamminghino \u2013 Giovanni Mauro Della Rovere (1575-1639).
\nAs with a number of churches on the lake and in the surrounding mountains, the artwork of the more famous craftsmen was paid for by a society of Sicilian immigrants called Scolae Panormi \u2013 the Latin name for Palermo. This group hailed from the area originally – emigrated to Sicily for work – and then returned prosperous and grateful to their homes in the Lake Como area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – view of the front altar <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – the crucifix above the front altar. The large arch above the front altar was crafted by Isidoro Bianchi di Campione (1581-1662). <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – sign above the side chapel attesting to the homage paid by the society of Sicilian immigrants – Scolae Panormi <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – ceiling painted by Il Fiammenghino <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – cherub painted by Il Fiammenghino<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – altar dedicated to St John the Baptist painted by Il Fiammenghino <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – cherub painted by Il Fiammenghino <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – fresco above the side altar painted by Il Fiammenghino <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – an original 12th century fresco that had been stuccoed over. The restoration shows the marks of the hammer where the stone was incised in order that the new stucco stick to it. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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BRENZIO – Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – the relics of Santa Rosalia (1130-1166) which were in the sacristy. This saint was from Palermo, Sicily. When the emigrants returned home to Lake Como they brought their devotion to their favorite saints with them. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A tour of the lakeside churches of Lago di Como is a must. Their architecture and artwork speak the language of the people over the centuries. That they remain when other buildings are destroyed is testament to a culture bound to its religion and the expression of faith through its art and the spaces dedicated to ritual.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Much of the flavor of Italy is embodied in what is considered food for the soul. These churches are a feast!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Virginia Merlini<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you love art \u2013 especially the art that speaks to the heart of the people \u2013 then a tour of the ancient churches on Lake Como is certain to feed your fancy. Many of the churches with the most expressive art are closed unless there is a Mass or celebration, or one is willing 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